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Raw food diet for dogs_: Tinker eating a whole mackerel, more of a prey model diet, I buy by the 30 pound case, a very natural dog food!

_What to feed my Alaskan Malamute: Raw dog food recipes ...

_Natural, healthy dog foods: I wouldn't suggest this with temperamentally-unsound dogs - but mine are just fine! :)

Alaskan Malamute nutrition: Natural dog food, raw diet for dogs ...

*Note: Someone Emailed and asked if this is adequate for a cat. It is not even remotely close to what a cat needs!*
What to feed an Alaskan Malamute ... As for 'natural dog food,' I'm not going to go into RAW / BARF versus kibble diet debate for Alaskan Malamutes, or even dogs, etc or the value of any one ingredient over another ingredient.

In both Canada and the USA, there exists a trend toward a raw or natural or 'BARF' - (Biologically Appropriate Real Food or also Bones And Raw Food) diet for dogs, a term coined in 1993 from the publishing of a book, "Give your dog a bone," by Ian Billinghurst. By the end of the 1999, and coinciding with a massive explosion of Internet use, raw diets for dogs, instead of kibble, became more popular, and its popularity continues, today. I use mainly raw and a dehydrated raw dog food for traveling.

Alternatively, the Prey Model Diet uses entire foods (a bunny, a fish, mice, etc - THE ENTIRE BODY of the food item and most people cannot do it due to cost, availability of items, etc. When I use an entire fish for the dogs dinner, for example, that is a prey model diet. However a diet of only fish would make any dog sick, eventually.

If you are interested in acquiring an education into 'dog nutrition' - and quite a few other topics - I have taken several courses from E-Training for Dogs, including ones from their Fitness and Nutrition Diploma - a very, very well-organized institute with many different courses relative to canines (and some equine) subjects.

Dr Ava Frick, DVM teaches the canine nutritional courses and you can read more about her holistic veterinarian rehabilitation practice and animal nutrition and physical services. I've also taken some university, college and other online courses in animal nutrition, and other, areas.

Activities that consume energy, beyond 'housepet' life fall into one of three categories; sprint, intermediate, and endurance. Sprint includes activities less than two minutes in duration (ie rally, agility, things where 'bursts' of energy are needed).

Intermediate,  upward of an hour (scooter/sled ride of a few miles, brisk walk, with a small amount of weight, tracking). Endurance is usually reserved for high-end sled dogs, rescue dogs and other activities involving hours of movement, load, etc (some extreme 'pack walks' could also be this category). The point is, that each activity requires very different diets - along with the diet appropriate for 'house pet'.

What to feed an Alaskan Malamute is dependent on many things - owner choice, dog, health concerns and availability of either kibble or raw ingredients. Historic Alaskan Malamute dog food was mainly fish, heavy in oil, seal, caribou and small animals - the dogs were fed a raw diet.

A sick dog should not have its diet 'fiddled with' unless you have access to someone who knows some of the problems that can occur with various illnesses, medications ... and with the addition of 'too much of a good thing' ... also be aware of 'canine nutritionists' you might find on the Internet.
Here is the list of most basic RAW foods and ingredients I am using for my dogs RAW diet, mainly for the benefit of anyone who is curious. I will maybe add raw dog food recipes, other raw ingredients when I have the time.


Meat and Fish products used in raw diets for dogs
- human-grade chicken, bone in, and ground
- human-grade chicken gizzard, chicken liver, and chicken heart
- human-grade ground beef, steak
- human-grade beef liver, beef heart, and tripe
- human-grade whole mackerel, sardine, tuna, and raw oyster, mussels


Milk and egg products used in raw diets for dogs
- human-grade fresh yogurt, cheese, cottage cheese, raw egg


Vegetables, Fruits used in raw diets for dogs
- human-grade pureed carrot, squash, sweet potato, cucumber, broccoli, peas, and zucchini
- human-grade apple, banana, strawberries, raspberries, and blueberries


Occasional Supplements used in raw diets for dogs
(only if the diet is deficient, usually seasonally, too)
- brewers and nutritional yeast, kelp, cod liver oil, wheat germ oil, salmon oil, and various other oils, zinc



* Good quality kibbles - healthy dog food, natural dog foods and holistic dog foods are substantially unregulated in Canada - that many Alaskan Malamute breeders feed include Purina, Arcana, NRG, and others. Generally, anything more than $40 a bag.

* Cost however does not dictate quality - and you should become familiar with what ingredients are, as they are listed on the bag.

* Activities that consume energy, beyond 'house pet' life fall into one of three categories; sprint, intermediate, and endurance. Sprint includes activities less than two minutes in duration. Intermediate, around an hour. Endurance is usually reserved for high end sled dogs, rescue dogs. Each activity requires very different diets.

* On average, Alaskan Malamutes (or any northern breed) can have higher  dietary requirements for zinc and for EFAs (fish oil), and my 'home brew  diet' reflects that.

A legitimate nutritionist is a DVM and DACVN (Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Nutrition) after their name (and advanced training). You can find the requirements to become an animal and canine nutritionist here. Unfortunately it's an unregulated industry. 


Nutrient Requirements for BARF Recipes for dogs

_If you want any of the below files as a PDF, simply Email and I will send them to you. Each of the following graphics link to a larger image of the nutritional analysis of that item from the USDA database (I use another program to import the 'ugly' USDA data and then make them 'pretty' and in a readable format. Most of the Daily % (percentage) numbers are in human terms, although the 'value' column is accurate, for both, since it is the value of the food item, and has nothing to do with dogs or humans. I have all of the 'dog values' (as dogs have different requirements for vitamins and minerals than humans. Most of the nutrient requirements listed on bags of food, the Internet, etc are are generally MINIMUM requirements and NOT optimum requirements. What I use is in both spreadsheet and in book form, mainly from 'Small Animal Clinical Nutrition' and 'National Research Council: Nutrient Requirements of Dogs and Cats'. I use the USDA food database, along with nutritiondata.self.com in addition to being an associate member of the American Academy of Veterinary Nutrition and so that I have access to good-quality, science- and fact-based information, along with several DVM Nutritional Vets. I also keep on hand a large number of past and current academic and scientific studies from various academic publications. I avoid the type of books you would find in the bookstore on the general 'pet shelf' and avoid most of what you can find on the Internet if you do a general search from a search engine. I also have access into several DVM publication libraries, due to having access to a huge number of databases (related and unrelated) because I work as an educator, and take advantage of that access. Yahoo provides very low-quality search results. Google provides fairly commercial results. BING tends to provide either the more obscure, or information-based and academic Web sites up.

Nutrient requirements for Alaskan Malamutes, dogs, using BARF or raw

_The image to the right, has the nutrient, mineral and amino acid values, etc required for Ms Ook. They are not raw food specific; they are dog specific - and cover dogs on kibble or raw diets though normally you would only use it for a diet for which you were unsure of the nutritional value. Each dog is different, since each is a different age, level of activity, neutered or intact, etc. You cannot 'use' the numbers for one 85 pound dog and expect them to be correct for ALL 85 pound dogs. If you look at the nutrition sheets below this they translate to human values. I've custom-made translations for my dogs, with dog values, but didn't post them.

If you look at the numbers for zinc (first at requirements and then to the nutrient values of zinc for the foods), you can see it is very difficult to get enough zinc into dogs (but possible) from natural food sources. The requirement for zinc is higher in dogs, than it is in humans.

The below 'human' charts are based on a 2000 calorie diet, per day. The dog I ran the chart off for, also has a 2000 calorie diet, per day - and needs double the zinc. Just looking at coat, a dog is covered in fur - a human is not - and that, alone, increases need for things like zinc.

Yellow indicates daily requirement, while the middle (pale yellow) column indicates 'minimum' and red is the safe upper limit. Some vitamins and minerals are toxic or cause various ailments if taken long term or at high doses. While it is difficult to do this with a normal 'food' diet, it is EASY to get into toxic ranges with supplements.

Zinc interacts negatively with several minerals and a deficiency can occur based on feeding things like calcium or zinc together (i.e. chicken with bone or bone meal and zinc - don't do it).

Unfortunately, nutritional deficiencies can take years to actually show and many dogs either die of 'other things' or 'unknown things' early and without diagnosis, to know that nutritional imbalances were the problem.

If you are not willing to put together the numbers accurately, to do a raw food diet for your dog, I would suggest finding a good quality kibble, instead.

Be aware too, that if the kibble says 'five cups a day' for YOUR dogs weight, and you use three, the dog is MISSING the nutrition from the missing two cups of food, whether his weight is right, or not.

Eventually, I will post a basic diet used by many people, and show exactly why it is incomplete in a variety of minerals, nutrients and amino acids.
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Nutrient, mineral and amino acid values required for an Alaskan Malamute - moderately active, approaching 'senior' and intact - Ms Ook in this example. This chart would be for ANY food, not just RAW or BARF.
How to determine your dogs nutritional requirements:
1. Calculate your dogs actual calorie, mineral, vitamin requirements.
2. Source and cost available foods in database required to make the diet.
3. Ensure the numerical amounts meet the required nutritional amounts.
4. Purchase supplements to amend deficiencies, negative interactions.
5. Increase or decrease items for disease - thyroid, cancer, diabetes.
6. Run CBC, Urinalysis, biochemistry panel two months after diet started.
7. Adjust diet based on results.
8. Run CBC, Urinalyses, biochemistry panel every 6 - 8 months after.
9. Recalculate diet EVERY time there is a change - sickness, disease, injury, climate changes, lack and excess of exercise - very, very important!
10. Be highly skeptical of those who comment 'RAW is EASY'.

General Rules for Barf, Raw diets for dog, including Alaskan Malamutes ...

1. The Internet is an open public forum and anyone can say anything, regardless of its validity, truth or accuracy.
2. Doing what 'works for you' (a common comment with raw diets), might make your dog very sick, or kill it.
3. Natural bone has 10 carbons of calcium, to 6 of phosphorus. An imbalance will create problems. Many RAW diets are VERY high on phosphorus.
4. Much of our tradition in dogs, is based orally - you told me, I tell someone else, and the knowledge is passed on - with mistakes and inaccuracies.
5. Too much diversity (leads to excesses in some values) in diet items is just as bad as too little diversity (leads to deficiencies in some values).
6. PubMed is a credible source and DOES have studies on RAW diets, wolf diets, kibble diets and hundreds of studies on nutrition for dogs and animals.
7. A legitimate 'canine nutritionist' is both a vet (DVM) and DACVN - Diplomate, American College of Veterinary Nutrition but unfortunately, ANYONE can call themselves 'canine nutritionist' - as it is completely unregulated in Canada and the United States. Buyer beware!
8. Improper diet can cause skeletal deformations, broken bones, eye sight problems, seizures, organ failure and it happens more frequently than realized.
9. Certain items really are TOXIC to dogs; others are not. The same item can frequently be found in BOTH lists. Know what information is accurate.
10. Cheap items used in diets lack nutrition, long term. Too bad your dogs diabetes won't show up until they are seven and was caused by diet.
11. BARF / RAW has been building in the 'mainstream' for about 10 years - coinciding with the more major rise in popularity of the Internet. Those interested in raw diets for dogs found the Internet a fast way to spread, and receive, information (the term 'BARF' was coined in 1993 with the publishing of a book on the subject) while the first major increase in Internet users rose around 1995).
12. By NOT doing CBC, blood, urine and electrolyte panels regularly, you have NO idea if the diet is 'ok' - or is slowly killing the dog.
13. Shiny coats and teeth are only TWO things - a diet high in chicken fat SHOULD lead to a 'shiny coat' but has LITTLE to do with the remaining dog.
14. Kibble manufacturers make a product to make money. MANY are pretty good while SOME are less than stellar. Learn to read a label.
15. ONLY a prey model diet comes close to be 'nutritionally complete', has the right balance of carbohydrates (stomach content), protein and fat. Even then, feeding the same item, daily, would absolutely lead to deficiencies and imbalances. Most people are not willing to hand over an entire small animal to their pet to munch up for dinner on their kitchen floor - and so the BARF / RAW food diets tend to be more appealing and widely-used.

At some point, I will post the breakdown in cost for feeding both RAW and kibble diets. High-end kibble IS normally cheaper than 'regular' kibble - but the savings is lost as the dogs size (and volume of food) increases. RAW can be cheaper - or very expensive - depending on your access to the ingredients. 

Raw Fish RAW / BARF Nutritional Information

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Mackerel BARF Info
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Tuna BARF Info
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Sardine BARF Info
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Salmon BARF Info
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Oyster BARF Info

Raw Beef BARF / RAW Nutritional Information

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Ground Beef BARF Info
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Beef Roast BARF Info
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Beef Cubes BARF Info
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Beef Liver BARF Info
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Beef Heart - BARF Info

Raw Poultry RAW / BARF Nutritional Information (chicken, turkey)

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Chicken (bone) BARF Info
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Chicken BARF Info
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Giblet, Heart BARF Info
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Ground Turkey BARF Info
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Turkey Neck BARF Info

Milk, Cheese and Egg BARF / RAW Nutritional Information

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Raw Egg BARF Info
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Cottage Cheese BARF Info
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Yogurt BARF Info

Raw Vegetables RAW / BARF Nutritional Information

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Orange Mix BARF Info
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Green Mix BARF Info
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Tomato Paste BARF Info

Raw Fruit BARF / RAW Nutritional Information

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Apple BARF Info
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Banana BARF Info
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Blueberry BARF Info
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Strawberry BARF Info

Breads and Pasta BARF / RAW Nutritional Information

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Rice Nutritional Info
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Pasta Nutritional Info
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Oatmeal Nutritional Info

Poor-Quality RAW Diets, Recipes from Internet (click graphic to expand):

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In each of the above diets, you can clearly see the deficiencies and the excesses by just comparing these diets to the chart I made for Ooky, at the top of the page. Calcium, Vitamins, minerals, EFA unbalanced, excessive, deficient - or missing (remember, the %DV is for a human - and MANY are actually quite a bit more, for a dog - these diets are really, really nutritionally deficient). All of these recipes came directly from the Internet, from sites teaching people what to use for a BARF / RAW diet. None actually referenced the weight, size, or activity level of the dog being fed. Given the caloric amounts, it would either be one meal for a dog close to Ooky's size (likely around 75 pounds though) or two meals, each, for a dog less than half of Ooky's size (which is only a guess since the sites FAILED to mention this extremely important information). A dog this size SHOULD HAVE about 28 mg of zinc per day; 2000 mg of calcium per day. Nearly 3000 IU of Vitamin A (there is a very wide margin of 'excess' too on this particular Vitamin). Copper, among many others, is also very low. I didn't post the amino acids, however, they, too, are very, very deficient in these diets. All of these were daily staple diets, with variations (more chicken) of the 'raw wings' for the raw meaty bones. One also mentioned a teaspoon of vegetable pulp, per day, consisting of ten vegetables. Not much nutrition comes from a teaspoon of any single vegetable, let alone 10 mashed up together.

Several do mention supplements, however the amounts to supplement, do not in any way co-relate to what was actually required. One of these diets was strictly for a puppy. It was grossly inadequate for a dog, let alone a puppy. In one case the calorie counts are wrong (by several hundred calories) when actually tabulated. The others tracked as per the original though, so clearly the USDA site or its information was used to formulate them. Some are excessive protein, carbohydrates, or fats - others reversed. There is nothing wrong with supplements - if you can't find the items to make up a good whole food diet. But tossing a Vitamin B pill into a dish, without knowing if, or what, was deficient (while excess Vitamin B was actually there) won't remedy anything. Adding a Calcium tablet, when three were actually needed, won't address the deficiencies - in the long term. MANY nutrient deficiencies / excesses take years to become visible, frequently after disease, has already occurred. Some of these nutrient deficiencies actually CAUSE other, normally-unrelated deficiencies by depleting other minerals, in turn. Shiny coats are a direct result of the usually abundant fat in most RAW diets - but it is not a gauge for the rest of the dog - or the remainder of the diet!

Commercial RAW-Diet Supplement (one of many examples):

Ingredient list: Oats, Buckwheat Groats, Safflower Oil, Dried Whole Egg, Molasses, Calcium Carbonate, Vitamin E, Latobacillus Acidophilus Fermentation (probiotic), Montmorilonite Clay, Calcium Ascorbate (Vitamin C), Diatomaceous Earth, Yucca Schidigera, Chelated Zinc, Manganese, Iron, Copper and Cobalt, Vitamin B Complex consisting of - Choline Chloride, Niacin, Riboflavin, Calcium Pantothenate, Thiamin Mononitrate, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride and Biotin, Vitamin D 3, Selenium and Vitamin A.

Ingredient list: Wheat Bran, Wheat Germ, Chicken Livers, Calcium Phosphate, Calcium Carbonate, Brewer’s Yeast, Dried Apple, Cod Liver Oil (Omega 3), Parsley, Kelp, Alfalfa, Dandelion Root, Apple Cider Vinegar, Rosemary, Garlic, Ginger. Vitamin C (Calcium Ascorbate), natural mixed tocopherols (Vitamin E).

The above two supplements need vegetables, water, yogurt and / or meat added, and they make complete and balanced meals. One supplement is used in AM and the other PM. While they do address the deficiencies in homemade diets, they have many additives added (red) and not whole foods.

Good-quality Commercial RAW diet:

INGREDIENT LIST: Cooked free range meat, (free range buffalo, beef, chicken or wild caught salmon depending on which kind you buy) naked oats, wheat germ, eggs, liver, carrots, grapefruit, winter squash, broccoli, cranberries, limes, papaya, apple, parsley, garlic, goat milk yogurt, flax seed, cider vinegar, egg shell, olive oil.

This above is actually a complete diet, and not a supplement but can be used ongoing, occasionally or as supplemental. There are no additives although it costs about four times as much money as most commercial RAW variants. Also see Downloads
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